Here is a video of a couple of the Houston Police horses on patrol. The Houston PD has one of the largest mounted patrol units in the country - and they keep their horses barefoot. They also use EasyCare hoof boots when needed - click here to view a photo album, and click here to read more about their hoof boot use.
About the dumbest thing we ever did was replace our wood fence with vinyl. It's got to be among the worst possible material for containing horses in. In the winter when things are frozen, the horses need only to roll and bump into a rail of the fence to have it shatter. When that happens, the shards fly everywhere - check out these that I picked up today after I removed the manure from the paddocks and dragged the fields with the tractor - these pieces just keep popping up (plus some are from recent damage as well). The pieces are so sharp you could use them like a knife. Imagine the damage they could do to a horse if they were to be stepped on, or rolled on?
In addition to the fence rails breaking, it doesn't take much for the fence posts themselves to crack and come apart. I guess you know it's time to replace your fence when it's held together by duct tape, eh? My neighbors fence (also vinyl) is also experiencing the same problems with the splinters, fractures and broken posts.
If you are looking into getting fence for you horses whatever you do look at choices other than vinyl. It is just not reliable long term. Even having hotwire on the top rail doesn't stop the damage - horses are still going to roll and knock into it here and there. We have already replaced the paddock cross fencing with metal pipe - now we will need to do the same with some other sections before my horses start getting out - fortunately the areas with the most damage are still within an additional fenced in area. 
The new improved gaiters on Epics and Bares are the same size and shape as before. The only difference is that some of the materials have been improved. This does make them less stretchy when they are brand new. This will take a couple of minutes to get the adjustments just right when the boots are used the first time. Once that takes place, they'll fit and work the same as previous versions of the gaiters. Click on photos to enlarge.
1) This shows a brand new size 1 Easyboot Epic with an EasyUp buckle and the newest 2008 model gaiter. This is on Chief's front foot. You can see the gap I get when I put the boots on for the first time.
2) I walk Chief down my driveway and back. It's not a very long driveway so only took less than a minute.
3) I tightened up the gaiter as it had already stretched a bit.
4) I walk Chief back down the driveway and back again.
5) I now retighten the gaiter and it is a perfect fit. It'd be easier to do two or four boots at once.
I did this at the Cuyama ride last weekend. I walked Chief around the trailer, or to the water trough in camp to drink and back. That is all it took on the first day, then the gaiters fit perfectly and some of them went on to do 100 miles on Chief. Tigger used different boots (he's a 2 on front) for his 55 mile day.
Here is the link to Equi Analytical. They will send you a free kit for testing your hay. Here is a pdf of my test results from my hay.
I find that my horses stay more level headed during ride starts if I soak their beet pulp ahead of time and drain off the excess sugar as much as possible. For the longest time I had been doing it the hard way - filling up a bucket of water, putting the BP into it, and then when done soaking draining off the excess water.
Now I have found a much easier way to do it! I went to the $1 store and bought two of these metal mesh baskets. They are the perfect size to fit into my little 8 quart buckets.
I use pelleted beet pulp. The local feed store doesn't carry shredded, which is fine with me because I can store more in less space by using pellets.
First I measure out a scoop of the pellets and place into the mesh basket.
Next I nearly fill up the 8 quart bucket with water.
Now I place the basket with the beet pulp into the bucket with water. Let soak for two hours. You can soak for more or less, depending upon temperature and your schedule.
Once done, remove the basket with the now plumped up beet pulp. Set down and allow to drain.
Dump out the soaking water. You may refill the 8 quart bucket again with fresh water and rinse the beet pulp one more time.
That's it - simple and easy!
For those that want to find my blog quickly without having to remember the long URL, this should help: karenchaton.com
This photo shows some of the items that I carry with me on my saddle for endurance riding in. I will make a list below that covers eveything I carry when I ride.
I will post again showing how I attach everything securely, so that it doesn't bounce and so that everything is easy to access and not in my way when riding.
Pictured items go into the front Stowaway pack on the saddle. The Deluxe Stowaway Pommel pack I use also carries two water bottles. I don't use a pack on the back (cantle) of the saddle because everything I want to access easily is kept in the pomel pack on the front. I put items on the back of the saddle that I seldom ever need - like the Easyboots. I can also tie a jacket, raingear, or a rump rug onto the back of the saddle and like not having anything else there for that reason.
1) First aid kit. It is fairly basic - bandaids, some different types of medications: pain pills, allergy meds, etc. Everything neatly fits into the green zippered pouch.
2) Toilet paper in baggie
3) Multi-plier tool
4) Chapstick
5) Vetwrap
6) 2 Easyboot Epics (one size 1 and one size 2)
I also attach or carry with me everytime I do a ride the following:
snacks (Gu, Cliff Shots, licorice, jerky)
hoof pick clipped to side of saddle
To attach and carry everything, I use the following:
Deluxe Snugpax for pommel
Elastic bungee cord (bought by the yard at the fabric store)
Caribbeaners
Tie-strings
Next up I will show how everything is attached securely.
We got another 6 to 8 inches of snow last night, and more coming down now. I did manage to get out on the trail a couple of times this weekend with Chief. The rest of the time is perfect for working on my saddle. I took everything off of it, cleaned it all up and put it back together again.
The first thing I did was clean and then apply leather conditioner to the saddle. Checked the Chicago screws on the off billets. They are on with lock-tite so should be good, but it never hurts to check on stuff like that! Checked over everything else - stirrup leathers, stirrups, clips, tie strings and D-rings. to make sure everything is in good order.
I cleaned up my sheepskin cover and also leather conditioned it as well. It gets dirty and sweaty during the year from my leg, and becomes crusty and hard. A good washing, then conditioning does wonders for it. You'd never know how many hours and miles this particular cover has done - it is definitely holding it's own very well. I'm using the Bob Marshall cover, and incidentally it works super well for my Freeform saddle too.
Next I'll post photos with a list of the items that I carry with me on my saddle. I will also show how I secure everything so that nothing bounces. I like to have everything easy to get to. When I get time I'll do the same for the Freeform saddle.
On the EasyCare website in the Education dropdown menu there is a new section called "Repairs". We have the first how-to up on installing an Easyboot Gaiter on an existing Easyboot. You'll be able to view step by step instructions with photos to show how to do this. Everything you need to know in order to turn a regular Easyboot into an Epic is right there.
If you'd like to see a tutorial on something in particular, let me know. We will be working to include many more topics that will help end users do their own repairs to their boots. I'm also going to be working on improving the quality of the educational videos that are on the site. I'm still researching what type of video camera to get that would work the best for this. Suggestions welcome! I need something that will take great quality video AND audio, and doesn't have a huge pricetag.
It's not easy keeping a horse barefoot in the winter.
Here are some photos I took this morning. As you can see, the ground is frozen solid. This can make it very difficult for a barefoot horse!
Continue reading "Tips on winter horse care for a barefoot horse" »
This also works for fitting EasyCare Dome Comfort Pads into other EasyCare hoof boots and should go very well in Old Mac G2's; they will also fit with trimming into original Old Mac's, Boa Horse Boots, and EasySoakers. These pads may work in other manufacturers boots too, like Cavallo's Simple Boot, or Davis Soaking boot, possibly a Marquis hoof boot - if there are any others, let me know. These dome comfort pads will soon be available in a size 1 which will fit the most common size Easyboot. Easyboot sizing is the same for regular Easyboots, Epics, Bares, Grips and the Custom boot. More information on pad sizing can be found at the bottom fo this post.
TEN TIPS FOR CUSTOMIZING DOME COMFORT PAD FIT INTO AN EASYBOOT, EPIC, BARE, GRIP, OR CUSTOM EASYBOOT
Continue reading "Ten Tips on How to Fit Your Dome Comfort Pads Into Your Easyboot Epics" »
Bernie and Mule Polly are traveling from Mexico to Canada. Click here to read Bernie's website for more information on where they are and their most recent adventures! www.riverearth.com
Look below to view a video of Bernie and Polly visiting a drive-in theatre! Bernie uses Easyboots on Polly - you can find information on his website with photos showing how he modifies them to work on mule feet. It looks like they are having a lot of fun, and isn't Polly beautiful? Be sure to check out Bernie's new book "Too Proud to Ride a Cow".
I need to order a couple of ID tags for Tigger.
I like to braid these metal ID tags into the horses manes.
I also put these tags on their halters and other tack. Over the years I've used a lot of different kinds, plastic, brass, metal. These are the best I have found so far. They are strong and durable, and over time the engraving doesn't disappear.
I got these from Pet Tags Online, $3.49 each.
If your horse happens to get loose if you are traveling or camping (or at an endurance ride), these are a great way to provide identification - especially if they manage to slip out of a halter.
Click here to view the monthly archives of my blog posts. If you are looking to find help or additional information on a particular topic, you can also search by category. I'll try and get more topics organized a bit better so that they are easier to find, like this one on Easyboot and Easyboot Epic tips. If you need help with something relating to hoof boots, you can also email me, or post a comment in my blog.
Check out this review (or watch the video below) of Chef's 5 minute meals! You heat and eat a hot meal, in five minutes - without the need for a stove or microwave. Pretty cool for endurance rides (or camping, etc.) when it's cold and/or you don't want to have to cook!
If you have a zipper that is sticking on something - a crewbag, saddle pack or other item - try rubbing a bar of soap up and down both sides of it. That should help coat it, and help it along. Another thing to try is silicone spray.
We used some silicone spray on a bale bag today to get it to close easier. It is several years old and pretty stubborn, but the spray fixed that. I have a crewbag that is starting to have some 'sticky zippers', so will try the spray or soap on it before the next ride.
Here are several of my blog posts organized on Useful Tips for Easyboots and Easyboot Epics. A lot of the tips are interchangeable between the two boots. The difference between an Easyboot and an Epic is the Easyboot Gaiter.
Some of these things will also be useful for other boots such as the Bares and Grips. I'll try to separate them by subject as well as possible and the link will go to each separate blog post by its title. If you need help with a particular issue, just shoot me an email or submit a comment.
Easyboots
Easyboot 101 For Endurance Riders (part 1)
Easyboot 101 For Endurance Riders (part 2, Easyfoam)
Tips for Reducing Heel Rubbing
Cable Adjustments on Easyboots
Five Easyboot, Epic and Grip Cable Adjustments
Opening Easyboot and Easyboot Epic Buckles
Changing a Cable on an Easyboot
Easyboot Epics
Removing Permanent Cleat Covers
Do I Need a Heelstrap in My Epics?
Top Ten Tips for Removing your Easyboot Epic or Bare Heelstrap
Using Plumbers Putty
Measuring Tips
Easyboot, Epic, Bare Hoof Boot Measuring Form
Maintenance Tips
Videos
EasyCare Educational Videos - Easyboot Epics
I was really lucky at Bryce that when Tigger put his hind leg over his cotton rope that he didn't struggle and fight and create a much more serious injury. Usually a rope burn caused by a cotton rope is a fairly minor injury. Yet, if the horse panics and fights it can lead to something much more serious. Turns out that this was the second time since I got Tigger in April that he got caught in something. The first time it was barbed wire down on the trail, and I was on him. I believe that the reason why, in both instances, he did not panic or get seriously injured is because I took the time after I first got him to do some hobble training with him. I consider hobbling a horse to be a pretty basic training lesson and do it with all of my horses and follow up yearly with refreshers. The reason why it's important is that it teaches a horse not to fight and struggle when they find that they are confined or trapped. This really can pay off later--like when they do get caught in barbed wire, or a fence, or even get a leg over a rope while tied.
Here are some articles on the topic. If you aren't comfortable or experienced enough to do this on your own, find somebody to help you or get a trainer that can at least initially get your horse broke to hobble.
The How-To's of the Hobble
Leg Restraints & NH
The Duck told me about this. I've been anchoring my awning with 5 gallon water containers. These definitely look like they'd work better. We've had some rain in camp in the afternoons the last couple of days. Luckily it has been beautiful otherwise, no wind and comfortable temperatures.
Here are a couple of photos of some of the trail. The ride is in the same area that the 1987 Race of Champions was held in. The country is truly spectacular and there is a lot of variety of geography here.
You really don't need the strength of King Kong to adjust your Easyboot Bares to a tighter setting. Here are some tips that will make it a lot easier, in fact it'll be so easy you'll wonder why you were trying to do it the hard way! (if in fact, you were) ;) Below the tips is a short video that may also help you to visualize it.
Boot Swap Page. That website is run by Gretchen Fathauer. Gretchen has this to say about her website: My web site is about using barefoot methods for treating foundered horses. It covers a lot more than just trimming, though, and has lots of illustrations. The bottom line is to shape the hoof capsule similar to the shape of the underlying structure. Despite Dr. Stasser being controversial, I still like her trimming steps and hoof landmarks for getting close to this shape. While I think it is possible to have a horse adapt to rocky terrain eventually...and not need boots...the reality is that many horses like on soft footing most of the time, and will need boots to work on terrain they are not acclimated to. Foundered horses often need boots for comfort and protection, especially if they have sole penetration.
I still don't have all the photos I'd like to have in order to put together a really clear tutorial on how to Easyfoam the boots on, or getting them ready to foam (which is actually pretty easy). So even though this is part 4 of 4 in my Easyfoam series, I've only gotten part 1 done. I'll make a category (see left hand column) called "Easyfoam" so that once I have all of the parts together they'll be easy to find.
How to remove an Easyfoamed on Easyboot. You'll see in the below photos that I am actually removing a foamed on "Bare" boot. I have been foaming Bares on with the gaiters removed with really good success. I love using Bares on my horses hind hooves.
*The boot you see in the above photos was foamed on Tigger at the Strawberry Fields Forever ride on June 21, and removed today - July 4. I brushed "Hoof Heal" on his entire hoof after removing the boot, and it looks as good as new. His foot was thoroughly cleaned and disinfected prior to foaming the boots on.
Below are videos showing me removing Chief's right and left hind boots. 9 days prior to this I Easyfoamed on two Easyboot Bares onto his hooves. The Bares had the gaiters removed and had been adjusted to the tightest setting and had the lower profile comfort straps in them. They stayed on 100% of the time through the entire three days and 155 miles of the endurance ride - they did not come off once!!! -- Unlike other brands of boots that couldn't make it to the first vet check, dang! As you can see, they are a good fit on him and came off quickly when I wanted them to. I gave Chief a bath first to help soften everything up, that is why everything looks so wet in the video. After I removed the boots I painted on some Hoof-Heal and after he moves around and everything dries out his hooves will be as good as new! It took me just under 45 seconds to remove both of these boots. I'll post later showing how good Chief's front hooves and pasterns look - I used regular Easyboot Epics on the fronts, and he had no rubbing. I will also work on some step by step instructions on removing the boots after they have been foamed on.
Here is a link to The Happy Healthy Horse Blog that has a post about equine emergency kits. Now is a good time to check the supplies that we have and make sure that everything is there in case we should need it. Or, you can follow the link to EquiMedic USA and order a complete new kit to suit your needs. I like that the blog post mentions having a set of already fitted Easyboots handy (good idea, btw!). ;)
